RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Alice in Wonderland of Haute Couture

Parisian tendency of fall-winter 2011-2012

Fashion is a doll-house of modern world. We like to dress and to be dressed. Modern life of a woman turns into wonderland where she gives to herself every day different character, she surrounds herself by could of mystery or dominating attraction. We don't like to be the same every day. Our playground is beyond of men imagination. They change their minds very quickly, we are quicker then that, and we are capable to predict, to keep them on edge of tense and wonder for more.
Haute couture – tailoring, high dressmaking, high dressing is a fusion of this modern playground. Couturiers bring every season their imagination to the level of artistic exquisite garment aggregate along with “magic” craft. This season they created magic of “happiness”. Happy funny silhouettes of elegant and amusing Alices chasing White Rabbits in the winter, trying Cube-Hats, and playing with flamingos on snow – image of this season which is done in different colors and mood of Wonderland.
New line of Chanel exposed in see trough geometry, feathers, and in peplum silhouettes. Collection in white, black, gray and muted colors was reflection of Karl Lagerfeld himself – Mister White Rabbit. Little curious girl is always wondering around Place Vendome, loosing herself in magical spheres and sparkles.



"Mondrian day” of Dior collection. Planarity of the dresses is an ideal field for colors and blocks. Knowing the flat planes of the 1960s canvases achieved by contemporary artists in the lineage of Mondrian, new line of Dior this season made in artistic sensibility, giving to winter tutti-frutti candy attitude.



Walk in magic field of iridescence, sun's rays, reflecting around everything what she sees: architectural lines, glass surfaces and glinting forms, Alice of Elie Saab is a crown jewel of Wonderland who creates magic by her presence, surrounded by lightness, draped in tulle, silk, chiffon and lace.



Mystery of looped transformed ribbons in elegant floating silhouettes – this is image of Alice of Stephane Rolland. She definitely came out of the sea. She is more Mermaid then human who doesn't obliged to hide her tail. She is floating in aqueous arabesques of whimsy with no limits. She is always dreaming about Dodo – prehistoric creature, with remaining dinosaur's spine out of bows, and waves. And all these dreams tattooed on her skin.



The magic fable created by Alexis Mabille about Her Majesty – Feathered Queen Alice radiates mystery and magic transformation of the world. Feather accessory, furry sleeves and shoulders – refracting shapes and lights, forms and colors, in everything around her.





Deep Cherry Red Alice of Alexandre Vauthier wrapped like a gift for Queen of Hearts. She improvises her images in break of glass of the all creatures she has met in her journey. They are still all around her, mysteriously appear and disappear in her silhouette. Fur coats, plums bolero-wings, large shoulder armour, shaped like giant rose petals from garden of Queen. Ultra attractive in all dimensions.



Alice of Tang Dynasty, powerful and eccentric, floating in silk, dripping honeydew all over her path – the image drawn by Zuhair Murad in his new collection. He exhausted all exalted variants of silk to create his perfect woman: crepe satin, organza, mikado, silk tulle, silk mousseline, gazard and lace. Luscious foliage embroideries of blooming lilies, bamboo shoots and love birds, are in the traditions at the height of Tang Dynasty. This is a story of a quest for harmony between Ying and Yang.





Surreal extravaganza, the most daring of all the land, Alice of Iris van Herpen, art herself, she exposed her brilliance in 3d designs. Crystallized splashes of water, falling down the shoulders like ruff-foam, sugar-structured wings, web of leather-yarns spinning around body – image of Alice coming trough mirror-transformation when there's no time to drink vials to become big or small enough to fit into reality. Transforming herself in between craftsmanship and 
innovation in technique and materials, Iris van Herpen finds a new way for her Alice to express underline her individuality.





Neo-futuristic, Snow Off Alice from house “On Aura Tout Vu”, collectes all mirrors around. She wants to see through and reflect the world, project her grace and life of her universe. Colorful spirit of forest, curious alluring Alice of Franck Sorbier is contradiction of strong little solder of Maxime Simoens marching on parade.



Spanish hit for Alice brought by Jeremy Bueno to the stage of Wonderland. Empress of sapphire mountains, who possessed Basil Soda, came out of her shine land into real world, giving her sparks to the stones and reflects everything around her.



Fragile, emulating the mythical imaginations, blooming juvenility, Alice of Georges Hobeika is walking on clouds like Greek goddess, spreading her gracious strength. Metal sheaths with complex joins constructed Alice of Christophe Josse. She is an antipode of Alice of Didiit with her twisted delicacy and over-fragility, growing from lily petals and ostrich plums.





Such magical land – Wonderland of Haute Couture, where everything is possible, where everything is changing dimensions and forms, transforms one to another. Brilliantly captured moments, ones more floating in front of my eyes, like a deck of cards, are ultimate imagination of supreme being with the paradox of being the paragon of Fashion.




Eleonora de Gray

Special thanks to Adam McQueen (a photographer, my Dodo, who's hiding behind the curtain, and whispers his brilliant notes and remarks in my ears)

On 2 last photos:
Susan Tabak, Diana Pernet (Shadowed view of fashion), me
Great Marcel Marongiu (designer of Guy Laroche) and me

Photo:
©Simon Ackerman
©Leah McQueen
©Chanel
©Dior
©Didit
©GeorgesHobeika
©Maxim Simoens
©Zuhair Murad

RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Haute Romantic summer 2011

Parisian Haute couture fashion week (24-27 January) is like always great parade of wonderful surprises and discoveries. Archetype of all collections coming from the past and represented iconic style of great romantic woman today. New collection by John Galliano is image coming from the early beginning of Dior. Charming and ultra feminine ladies of 50′s, Crudelia De Vil and high society housewives, covered by hundred yards of fabric. Transparency and fragility was another side of romantic woman coming from fashion house Chanel. Most of the pieces were done in sheer chiffon making it with a few hints of sexiness but without showing the reality, playing with proportions in dreamy lines. Ivory rules of new collection of Valentino created clarity of moon in little fragile lady-ghost. Different image of romantic woman was offered by Armani – metallic futuristic lady wrapped in glittering and colorful sequins, jewels and trinkets. Punk Lady of Jean Paul Gaultier has everything from mohawks and dog collars, to looks what we call ” Vicious Frenchy” or “London Calling”, tailored to perfection. Full skirts, flouncy dresses, jackets, jumpsuits, and gowns were embellished, ruffled, studded, and even frayed to make fragile woman strong and viciously quirky at the first sight. Lady-glider by Elie Saab was presented in Eden's garden powdered in pastel dust of imagination, covered with flowers and floating silk, like always Cinderella just one step before her “red carpet” ball.







New collection of Christophe Josse gloriously presented innocent woman illustrated in allusions of Cocteaau plaster work. White horsehair lanyards with porcelain beads is sign of innocence in dove gray dresses. Woman of Josse is flying in clouds of creamy butter hues, lilac duchess satin. This image inspired by photographer Heinrich Kuhn. Embroidery in stainless steel, waffle weave fabric, white neoprene fabric whipped up into a creamy volume like a neo silk gazar, give the collection contemporary approach and impressionists movements, a touch of excitability. The slender bust is built on a supple tulle corset, giving softer volume from the waist, puffed out into flared skirt, or stretched out into wide trousers to be worn like a long skirt, in crisp pleats. All these delicate details make collection split in unique images from past. The king of delicacy like kind of magic - Christophe Josse created innocent woman who looked extremely feminine, dreamy and courteous like Greek goddesses.









New collection of Eva Minge is another romantic tour in elegant past – XIX century deeply spoiled by dark depravity of romantic fantasies about Dracula. This is another side of romantic woman – at first sight very naive but perversely attractive and dangerous. Provocative image of luxurious woman played in tulle and silk, crepe and jersey or contemporary tight-flashy stretch. With vampirical hetaera woman of Minge shows spectral of darkness. It's another contemporary goddess who exude an ultra-powerful femininity. Famous ex-top model Adriana Karembu assisted on this delightful collection of Vampire heroines.







Romantic woman of new collection Stephane Rolland is a pure woman who just came out of painting. I had a strong feeling that I see in these silhouettes inspiration from his surrounding. The palettes and canvas floating in all futuristic details from impressionist's paintings and creating the amazing forms transforming one into another. Amazing bronze, brown, gold, saffron yellow, orange and green colors of silk, satin, lurex, chiffon crystal fabrics were made into these amazing shapes, any woman will be satisfied in these gowns. The designer was inspired by the architectural work of Hadid, the photographs of Edward Weston, India, spirituality and the search for pure and perfect form of being. The collection therefore is a homage to simplicity, but opens up it's complicity in the details, cuts, inserts, drapes, fabrics and geometrical forms. The outfits have precious necklines, asymmetrical lengths, balloon shoulders, curls and new volumes – amazing forms for pure and creative woman. The couturier asymmetrically draped fabric in a way that kept its form and shape, while also creating modern feminine silhouettes. Metallic accents on the gowns at the waist, shoulder, hip, or collar bone gave the gowns an avant-garde edge. The most memorable pieces were those with voluminous draping that highlighted the technique behind creating Haute Couture, and highlighted the art behind wrapping the female body in hundreds of yards of luxurious silk, crepe, tulle, and chiffon. The rich color palette consisted of gold, orange, brown, sandy tan, khaki green, white and copper. Some gowns were high-cut in the front and surprisingly flowing and long in the back, while others created the effect that the dress was in fact very rigidly constructed. Probably this is the only one collection who gave me so many different images swapping one another – sailing in the Ocean, chocolate cakes, knights of middle age, vitrage in the medieval church. Certainly creativity of modern woman came out of masterpieces of men. Mireille Mathieu – the one of famous French singer, the great lady of 50s, came to enjoy the show.



















Romantic woman in the new collection of Basil Soda is woman of Renaissance, woman of whimsical fantasy. Great discovery this season – new fashion house. Basil Soda - Lebanese designer made a name for himself working for Elie Saab before launching his own fashion house. Soda presented a flawless collection of fluid gowns with stunning, jewel - encrusted, structured bodices. Mystical creature – a Mermaid – a goddess of Ocean, curved in organic, especially floral and other plant-inspired motifs, highly stylized, flowing curvilinear forms of “Art Nouveau” - this is the look for romantic woman of Soda. He made a collection of dresses in symmetry and harmony what we can see in nature. The dress is an opportunity to sculpt a hybrid form whether using inner living structures as an outer layer. In this collection, earthy beige and creamy leaves are precariously woven into delicate French Dentelle. Taupe jackets are layered with pale blue leaves which appear to be growing from their silk base-earth. A Mermaid is created with creamy fish-like vertebra and reptilian skin that are carefully reshaped into dresses. Harmonious decoration of dresses shows real nature of the woman – the Ocean, the creative nature. Indeed the most amazing and creative collection of the season.














New collection of Rabih Kayrouz is “one-functional” - another discovery. Designer trough away all pompous style of “red carpet” what he used to show before, and put his romantic woman in atmosphere of simplicity and strong lines. There's no anymore long and complicated silhouettes, no floating silk for elegant and mysterious woman – only function, volume and color. Evocation of nobles, force and inner strength what's known in Asia. Using work-wear as his base, “not anymore” romantic Rabih Kayrouz took his craft to the field or the butcher shop. Kayrouz does not believe in seasonal dressing, so even though he was showing in fall couture week, he conjured up dresses as light of summer on Japanese kimonos for Royalties. Plastron from turtle in contracts of leather, cashmere, organza and satin creates massive and strong image of power in romantic woman. The modern world isn't a most perfect place for naive or dreamy woman – it's place of predators and their prays. She's not a predator but she has to be strong and ready to face anyone who'll try to eat her - she has her own armor, her own protection. Protectress in her shell but not a woman warrior, not a predator, giving her protection and sharing her power by coloring her cuirass. Romantic woman of Kayrouz is naked woman without her daydreams and illusion participation in her grace into real very masculine world. I'd say that this collection is so unique for this season, unwrapped from any romantic dream.





“On aura tout vu” (“We've seen everything”), a new fashion house with surprising, moved spirit, showed new collection for romantic woman “Flying dreams”. Romantic women of their new collection – is Alice in wonderland with all imaginable creatures which are the transcendent images of her own personality, sculptured and stamped on her gowns. A desire to play with fabrics, objects, light, colors, so the true and false are always intermingling in the collection, like in real world. Live pigeons, eggs, feathers and aviation accessories took over the couture runway. On Aura Tout Vu used a basic palette of black and white, accenting with silver and gold. The most intriguing outfit of the collection was the Unicorn-inspired look. There can never be enough sparkle, never enough feathers and never enough mix of classic elegant European forms and Afro-Asian motives. Lily-white doves vanish in the skies towards radiant horizons in a flood of magical euphoria. Rebel Amazons dressed in ethereal laces whirl around in a never-ending dream. Every look was like poem in drawing of celestial veils enveloping shoulders, necklaces of moons illuminating their faces with the brightness. The bodies of the fairy queens are covered with a thousand sets of jewels that shine with a fiery glow. Glorious image of romantic woman who's looking from behind of magic mirror into real world.











New look of woman in collection of Didit is covered in sugar candy silk with cherry on top – floral ornaments. The fit of a skirt refines the organic forms of a millefeuille drape on an off-the shoulder top. Feminine forms and volumes on the back create image of dragonflies and damselflies – mystical and attractive predators. Alongside youthful pinks, vine peach shades, blush pinks and milk-and-strawberries, in turn faded or pushed to saturation point, almost neon-bright, inspired by marble and water effects and reflections on wings of these charming predators. Designer Didit Hediprasetyo brought up flouting tradition of ceremonies of Bali in cuts and drapes, revealing sublime irresistible attraction in hand-made fabrics like tiny instants of happiness in paradise.







To celebrate Haute Couture fashion week all big jewelry houses presented the amazing hand-made pieces. I discovered two absolutely outstanding pieces in houses Van Cleef & Arpels and Chanel. The Zip fastener invented for the clothing worn by sailors and pilots, has been transformed by Van Cleef & Arples into Zip necklace-bracelet for Duchess of Windsor in 1906. The first Zip necklace, introduced in 1950s, was a sensation – who'd ever think about transforming piece of technical magic into jewelry. Precious piece became the motive of new collection – four models of gold, sparkling diamonds, in geometric set of colorful stones emeralds and sapphires.





Architecture in miniature is innovation for new Haute Jewelry collection of Chanel. Wonderful pieces in gold settings remind the waterfalls, mosaics of Russian churches, cupolas of Bukhara magical sobors, where every little pearl and stone is in motion and powered by win. This is the most precious accomplishment for romantic summer 2011. and like always we are looking for more...