2021 CFDA Fashion Awards ceremony – Celebrating Counterfeit

2021 CFDA Fashion Awards ceremony – Celebrating Counterfeit. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.

Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of lifetime achievement CFDA Award 2021

Emily Blunt, Chairman of the CFDA Tom Ford, Dame Anna Wintour, Designer Demna Gvasalia of Balenciaga, Kering - CFDA Award 2021

CFDA Fashion Awards 2021 ceremony took place at the Pool + The Grill within the Seagram Building on Park Avenue. The fabulous evening was hosted by actress Emily Blunt.

Celebration of counterfeit and illegal goods designer Dapper Dan with the Geoffrey Beene lifetime achievement award

This year CFDA honored counterfeit goods designer Dapper Dan with the Geoffrey Beene lifetime achievement award, making him the first designer without a fashion show, and the first designer who produced counterfeit goods, chased by FBI, to ever win the honor.

Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of lifetime achievement CFDA Award 2021

Dapper Dan was tearing when he received the award this Wednesday November 10. He proudly told the story how he printed on fabrics in his atelier the logos of Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Fendi, how he picked the designs from sportswear companies, or Christian Dior Haute Couture designs for the famous jacket he made with Louis Vuitton printed logos to Olympic Runner Diane Lynn Dixon, or how he mixed Gucci and Louis Vuitton logos on the bomber jackets. Dapper Dan proudly told the story about how he “created” jackets, even total looks for drug-lords, rap or hip-hop singers.

Dapper Dan also told the story about how fashion brands filed massive lawsuit against him, he was chased by FBI, and finally they were able to close his atelier in Harlem, and strip him from all money he earned by production of illegal goods. Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Dior, and specifically Fendi put the end to this illegal production. 

Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of lifetime achievement CFDA Award 2021

Olympic Runner Diane Dixon - Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of CFDA Award 2021

Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of lifetime achievement CFDA Award 2021

In 2017 CEO of Kering Luxury Group Francois-Henri Pinault and CEO of Gucci Marco Bizzarri decided to invest several million dollars, and and relaunched Dapper Dan as a by-appointment studio for custom pieces. Dapper Dan himself was even starring in Gucci’s new men’s-tailoring ad campaign.

In another words CEO of Kering Luxury Group Francois-Henri Pinault released “Counterfeit Bacteria” on the world and started “Counterfeit Pandemic“, which spreads today as rapidly as coronavirus. Here and there I see “designers”, who present even in department stores their counterfeit production, some sort of hybrids.

I’m asking myself a question – is that some strange way of Kering to “outsmart” LVMH? Gucci belongs to the Group Kering, Luxury goods company. Louis Vuitton belongs to LVMH – another Luxury goods company. And back in the 90s Dapper Dan used mostly Louis Vuitton,  Gucci and Fendi logos, mixing and matching them up. It is known that Kering and LVMH for more than 50 years had a war for territory in the luxury market. So when in 2017 Gucci invested to re-opened an atelier in Harlem for Dapper Dan, invested to clean up his reputation, paid media (and specifically to one), made him sponsor of New York Fashion Week, there is a reason for that. Tailoring method, or as Dapper Dan calls it “designs”, which were used with Louis Vuitton logos today remade with the logos of Gucci. Is it another way, quiet pervert I might add, to take territory from LVMH? The perversity of it all, mind games if you like, would be this investment in Dapper Dan of François-Henri Pinault, CEO of Kering, with desire to “outsmart” Bernard Arnault, CEO of LVMH, and take the “territory” which is definitely outside of law, in the dark side, belonged to LVMH in the past. Although this mind game of Francois-Henri Pinault has a very dark outcome. He didn’t think about circumstances, how it’ll affect sociality, and what destructive results it could bring worldwide just 3 years after. Bringing Dapper Dan to the light side, paying the media to clean up his reputation, naming him “true genius”, made him sponsor of New York Fashion week, give him lifetime achievement award by CFDA in 2021 opened up a path to legitimize all illegal producers, counterfeit designers. And started “Counterfeit Pandemic”. 

In 2018 Vogue became promotion outlet for Dapper Dan, in 2019 Vogue invited as a guest of honor Dapper Dan to The Met Gala, invited stars to visit his atelier in Harlem. And in 2021 Pepsi who wanted to become a sponsor of New York Fashion Week Dapper Dan was imposed, so he can also be announced as a sponsor of New York Fashion Week. And the last – CFDA honored Dapper Dan with lifetime achievement award in 2021.

Chairman of CFDA Tom Ford celebrates Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dapper Dan CFDA Award 2021

Gucci CEO Marco Bizzarri, A$AP Ferg, Susan Chokachi celebrate CFDA Award 2021 of Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan

The shadowy business of counterfeits has taken over the globe to become a $1.2 trillion industry. Despite extensive and expensive efforts by brands, by law enforcement, efforts of the Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (“OECD”) and the European Union Intellectual Property Office (“EUIPO”), this shadowy business became the center of the attention during this New York Fashion Week, and the most known designer / tailor of counterfeit illegal goods Dapper Dan was honored by lifetime achievement award for his counterfeit illegal goods production in 90s from its organizer CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America).

“We’re also incredibly pleased to see several talented names among the nominees for the first time. American fashion is experiencing a renewed energy, and the designers play a significant role in the future trajectory of our industry,” – said CFDA CEO Steven Kolb.

In parenthesis. Michael Kors at the beginning of 2021 proposed concept FENDACE, a collaboration between Fendi and Versace. Let’s say it is a very creative way against counterfeit pandemic. Fendi was the one who insisted in 1990s to put the end to counterfeit illegal activities of Dapper Dan, close his atelier, and strip him of all earnings.

Michael Kors didn’t approve the nomination of a counterfeit goods tailor Dapper Dan with lifetime achievement award, his sponsorship of New York Fashion Week. He predicted the “Counterfeit Pandemic” and decided to confront it in the most creative way – with the concept. Capri Holdings Limited, a multinational fashion holding company, founded and owned by American designer Michael Kors, since 2018 owns Versace – the most popular luxury brand, and the one being the most exposed to counterfeit.

Michael Kors proposed a concept to Donatella Versace and Fendi to create a mix-match collection and united their logos and styles. If public want to see Versace and Fendi logos in one luxury item, so let’s create it for them in one outfit and by these brands. This absolutely brilliant concept had a huge success during Milan Fashion Week this September. The collection Versace and Fendi got a name FENDACE. Donatella Versace leaded this project. Michael Kors even flew to Milan for the show.

Fendi Versace collaboration - Fendace - by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Back to Celebration of counterfeit and illegal goods designer Dapper Dan with the Geoffrey Beene lifetime achievement award….

“This is an important moment in American fashion. There is much excitement about the return of New York City and New York Fashion Week as well as the top caliber of diverse talent making their mark on the city and the global fashion landscape. The CFDA Fashion Awards are our biggest fundraiser of the year, and we are looking forward to our industry coming together, in person again, to celebrate the very best of American creativity,” – said CFDA CEO Steven Kolb.

Nominations for each award category were submitted by the CFDA Fashion Awards Guild, comprised of members of the CFDA, and Vogue magazine.

Winners of CFDA Fashion Awards 2021

Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of lifetime achievement CFDA Award 2021

American Womenswear Designer of the Year Christopher John Rogers – CFDA Award 2021

Drew Barrymore and Christian Siriano at CFDA Award 2021

Emerging Designer Of The Year Edvin Thompson Of Theophilio – CFDA Award 2021

Founders Award of the Year Aurora James and Dame Anna Wintour – CFDA Award 2021

Inaugural Face of the Year Award Anya Taylor-Joy presented by Cara Delevingne – CFDA Award 2021

International Women’s Designer of the Year Demna Gvasalia of Balenciaga, Kering Group – CFDA Award 2021

The Board of Directors Tribute honoree Yeohlee Teng, presented by Michael Kors – CFDA Award 2021

Zendaya, 2021 CFDA Fashion Icon, Iman and stylist Law Roach at CFDA Award 2021

Dolce Gabbana Fall Winter 2021-2022

Dolce Gabbana Fall Winter 2021-2022. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.

See all looks of the collection HERE.

Well, after recent fiasco with Men collection Fall Winter 2021-2022 this collection is indeed “Back to the feature” or “Rewind” or “Remastered” experience created by two great designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. There’s indeed a glitch of Philipp Plein, and not only me had to notice, but the pink or golden glossy pants are not exactly only his signature. But there are also “Street Tagging”, “Chinese Street”, “Star Wars”, “Astronauts”, “Baseball”, themes.

Non need “to celebrate the excellence”, like it says in the press-release, as there’s no such thing as perfection. Although there’s indeed very important research related to artificial intelligence, new technologies in general which became a part of fashion, shown by models. Dolce & Gabbana and the Istituto Italiano di Tecnologia (IIT) in this Fall Winter 2021-2022 show brought up research in the technological field and its infinite applications, fashion included.

The multifunctional humanoid robots iCub and R1 (thinking of “Star Wars”) were involved in the event, the result of IIT’s highly specialized research activity in the field of service robotics and Artificial Intelligence. Here also overlapping a little bit with Philipp Plein who showed during Milan Fashion Week a show for Spring Summer 2016 season, where models were served by the robots.

The idea of this Dolce Gabbana collection is to show how technology and craftsmanship, two different worlds, might come together. The looks for this collection were inspired by robotics research and Artificial Intelligence, and based on the looks created by Dolce Gabbana in 90s.

Let’s start from the technology. Dolce Gabbana presented I’d say “cyber-fashion” : artificial colors, fake textures and digitally enhanced features, kaleidoscopic high-tech materials, morphing wools with plastics, and vegan “things”. The designers had employed technological evolution to develop real, tactile fabrics that brought the look of virtual reality into the material world.

And what is morphing from 90s to this futuristic collection is the transformation of their LEOPARD PRINT. Everyone has a jacket or coat, black classic tailor or denim, with leopard print inside. Even Vice-President of United States Kamala Harris has one, and wore it at the Inauguration day. So this collection shows leopard prints outside in artificial yellow, red and blue colors. These colors were used on the leather, denim, polyester and silk, and applied by new technological methods.

Another known element, like we say DNA today, from Dolce Gabbana past which developed trough the years is the patchwork, amazing craftsmanship and traditional Sicilian and Italian patchwork. This patchwork also find its place in this new futuristic collection. Look how sparkle…

Themes:

“Street Tagging”. The show starts with very colorful pieces bomb-painted looks.

“Chinese Street”. The most admired and reproduced by billion “fashion looks” of Chinese streets Dolce Gabbana put up on absolutely new very luxury level.

“Star Wars” and “Astronauts”. Designers came up with very futuristic looks of the “blown up” goose-down jackets and coats in addition to specific face coverings due to pandemic. Let’s add here new marketing wave to make all “exploring cosmos”.

There are couple of other themes like “Baseball” or “Old Classic” (I don’t want to say Chanel-ish), themes and style of today and everyday life transformed and morphed by the new technologies applied to traditional fabrics, created a “New Touch” or “New Punch” of this Fall Winter 2021-2022 collection of Dolce Gabbana. Next step to use “Vegetal leather” out of apple skin, like Tommy Hilfiger produces for the second season.

Dolce Gabbana Fall Winter 2021-2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Dolce Gabbana Fall Winter 2021-2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Dolce Gabbana Fall Winter 2021-2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Dolce Gabbana Fall Winter 2021-2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Dolce Gabbana Fall Winter 2021-2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Dolce Gabbana Fall Winter 2021-2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Dolce Gabbana Fall Winter 2021-2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Dolce Gabbana Fall Winter 2021-2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Dolce Gabbana Fall Winter 2021-2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Dolce Gabbana Fall Winter 2021-2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Dolce Gabbana Fall Winter 2021-2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Dolce Gabbana Fall Winter 2021-2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Kenzo Takada – fashion icon died 4 October 2020

Kenzo Takada – fashion icon died 4 October 2020. With his use of colors and lights, he forever changed Parisian couture. It is sad to know that this great designer became another victim of Covid-19.

Kenzo Takada support to RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Mat Maitland creative commercial project for Kenzo – 2013 Resort collection

He was suppose to attend the evening 23 September 2020, the premiere of the film “House of Cardin”, but at that time he was already weakened by coronavirus. Full of life, full of flowers Kenzo Takada was spirited away in the land of beauty and art.

PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 28: Kenzo Takada celebrates his 80th Birthday at Pavillon Ledoyen on February 28, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Rindoff Petroff/Castel/Getty Images)

Many people in Paris today expressed their sadness. Kenzo Takada was born in Japan, he came to Paris in January 1965. And he indeed became a national treasure.

Kenzo Takada and Eleonora de Gray – Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE

I’ve meet him in 2010 during his art exposition in Pierre Cardin gallery. And since then I always felt his support and participation in many fashion and art project we organized. And I’m forever thankful for that.

Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE

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