\ RUNWAY MAGAZINE ®: Olivier Rousteing
Showing posts with label Olivier Rousteing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Olivier Rousteing. Show all posts

September 29, 2020

Balmain Spring Summer 2021

Balmain Spring Summer 2021 Paris Fashion Week. Review by ELEONORA DE GRAY, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.

Olivier Rousteing new exploration of the history of the brand. Beautiful quotes of Pierre Balmain at the beginning of the show, classy and ultimate untimely looks presented by senior models. The collection gave an impression that Balmain had to hire an expert, and Olivier Rousteing was guided strongly in the lines of the brand.

And yes, Olivier Rousteing felt like “Winning!” after massive lawsuits storm during last 2 years for the copy designs of other houses. This time he stayed in the strong lines! Just this ones… Balmain logo patterns, longer silhouettes, some plays from 80s, colors, just high shoulder lines from Pierre Cardin, but that’s all about it. Strangely enough you can actually find new collection of Balmain for Spring Summer 2021 very elegant and beautiful. Was there someone else? Couldn’t be Olivier Rousteing creating from out of nowhere after crude copies of other designers and incapacity to create. But, hey… here we are… watching fabulous collection, all in lines, Pierre Balmain related, with strong creative concept.

Kim Kardashian gave her massive support on her instagram. Kanye West was actually present at the show. Although… no restrictions has been respected, concerning Covid-19. We are not in Milan after all. No masks, no social distancing, 1000 people got snugly squashed like canned sardines. Oh well…. see show and die!

See ALL LOOKS HERE



Balmain Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balmain Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balmain Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balmain Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE


Balmain Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balmain Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Kim Kardashian in Balmain Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Kim Kardashian in Balmain Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE


July 6, 2020

75 years of Balmain – “Balmain Sans Souci” on Seine

To celebrate its 75th anniversary, the Maison Balmain and its “creative” director Olivier Rousteing decided to do some sort of presentation on a barge on the Seine with fashion show, singer and dancers, to which everyone was virtually invited to watch live exclusively on Tik Tok. Press-releases with pompous announcements were massively distributed to the press about THE MOST WANTED Parisian event just before Haute Couture fashion week.

And many media actually published this announce about an “exceptional” event in Paris, which will be watched by thousands people, as it was created by “a great young designer, who’s reinvented fashion” (press-release).

75 years of Balmain fashion house – Balmain Sans Souci sur Seine
75 years of Balmain fashion house – Balmain Sans Souci sur Seine

Well…. Let’s do the “check list”, shall we?! This pompous event celebrating 75 years of Balmain fashion house was suppose to go alive, “for the first time in the history” on a barge on the Seine, watched by thousands of people in Paris and online…. And…. let’s try to see how it’ll go…. still trying…. couple of hours later still trying…. and this LIVE event didn’t go! No broadcast or anything were actually held on Tik Tok!


Check!


75 years of Balmain fashion house – Balmain Sans Souci sur Seine – Yseult invited to perform
75 years of Balmain fashion house – Balmain Sans Souci sur Seine – Yseult invited to perform
Olivier Rousteing choose a very famous barge called “Sans Souci” , “No Worries” on English. One would think that it would be a big boat or barge, the way he announced it. Well, we all know and love this barge, as it is the one of the coolest and not expensive places to held some family anniversaries, or small company events. This barge can handle about 50 people. And yes, it is a very small barge. Many Parisians celebrated grandparents anniversaries on this barge, or small companies their events. We did too.


Check! 

Barge “Sans Souci” Paris
Barge “Sans Souci” Paris
This 75 years of Balmain fashion house announced under sign “Black lives matter”. One good thing that at the last moment Olivier Rousteing decided NOT to relate fashion house and social conflict. This time as Balmain was not able officially present the collection during this Haute Couture digital fashion week Olivier Rousteing decided to blow up Paris evening before July 5, 2020 with the “Balmain sur Seine” or better “Balmain Sans Souci”, which would be on English “Carefree Balmain” boat show on Seine. According to distributed press-release and interviews Olivier Rousteing basically doesn’t care about current situation, social distancing and this sort of things related to pandemic. It is indeed carefree.


Check! 

Balmain Couture Fall 2020 or Balmain sur Seine by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balmain Couture Fall 2020 or Balmain sur Seine by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

75 years of Balmain fashion house – Balmain Sans Souci sur Seine
75 years of Balmain fashion house – Balmain Sans Souci sur Seine
“A barge is to cruise down the Seine River on Sunday evening, giving anyone gathered on the banks or pedestrian bridges a view of vintage couture and other fashions, a mini concert by French singer Yseult, and a surprise dance performance”, – announced WWD in another opulent, and apparently very expensive, tribute to Olivier Rousteing, in addition to recently published. “It’s important to reinforce who we are and what we’re known for,” Olivier Rousteing said in his interview to WWD.

So good for the reinforcement. Balmain fashion show was actually a show of 12 models (counted myself) presented couple pieces from Pierre Balmain and Oscar de la Renta, and then mostly Olivier Rousteing. Madame Figaro wrote: “The singer Yseult dressed all in white offers a concert, framed by a dozen models taking turns on mirror squares.” Good thing that Sabrina Pons, who wrote this “journalistic piece”, also counted – yes, indeed 12 models! Although with the concert… that is a big word! It was just couple of songs, and then when models left dozen of dancers took their place with a little performance.


Check!

Cindy Bruna for Balmain Couture Fall 2020 or Balmain sur Seine by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Cindy Bruna for Balmain Couture Fall 2020 or Balmain sur Seine by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

75 years of Balmain fashion house – Balmain Sans Souci sur Seine
75 years of Balmain fashion house – Balmain Sans Souci sur Seine
Sabrina Pons from Madame Figaro continues “around the Eiffel Tower, Parisians – warmly invited by the artistic director to go to the banks to follow the event…” Well from the looks of it, no one actually knew or cared about the event, no matter for how long Olivier Rousteing was bragging about this event to his “millions and millions” (purchased) followers on his social media networks and press. People who came to the banks of Seine to have some sun a the late Sunday afternoon didn’t have much interest, and no one was using their mobiles to take some photos! Did she really see some crowds who came to see the Balmain boat show celebrating 75th anniversary of the house? Did she see anyone taking pictures?! Maybe of Cindy Bruna - French top model? Anyone?.. Look, she was actually giving her attention and applause.... Maybe on the bridge?.. No one?! How come?!!

Cindy Bruna – 75 years of Balmain – “Balmain Sans Souci” on Seine – Balmain sur Seine 2020
Cindy Bruna – 75 years of Balmain – “Balmain Sans Souci” on Seine – Balmain sur Seine 2020
75 years of Balmain – “Balmain Sans Souci” on Seine
75 years of Balmain – “Balmain Sans Souci” on Seine – Balmain sur Seine 2020

Check! 

“The other and immense majority of spectators (several tens of thousands of people) can be found behind the screens,”- wrote Sabrina Pons from Madame Figaro. Nope!!! No one!!! Nada! No one was behind the screens, no LIVE Tik Tok! Didn’t she knew that?!!!

And I was also wondering how these kind of articles can be actually published in such respected media like WWD or Madame Figaro? Ok, paid articles… so that’s it, hah?! We publish any false and mind-numbingly stupid “journalistic pieces”? I remember the times when Madame Figaro was writing very sharp and quiet unpleasant for the fashion house critics, with disregard that fashion house paid very expensive price for this article. Am I getting old? Or experts and real journalists got fired? Or perhaps it is a time to recheck the staff?.. Although here, this is not my place to say “Check!”

And for the big finale… It was really hard to find some posts and photos about 75 years of Balmain fashion house – “Balmain Sans Souci” on Seine. Couple of bloggers on Instagram posted few photos and videos with 200 followers, and happily shared on Instagram by very emotionally moved by this historical moment Olivier Rousteing. That’s all about it!

See all looks of Balmain Couture Fall 2020 HERE


Balmain Couture Fall 2020 or Balmain sur Seine by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balmain Couture Fall 2020 or Balmain sur Seine by RUNWAY MAGAZINE


75 years of Balmain fashion house – Balmain Sans Souci sur Seine
75 years of Balmain fashion house – Balmain Sans Souci sur Seine

Happy anniversary, Balmain!

Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief RUNWAY MAGAZINE

March 8, 2020

Mirror Mirror on Runway… or what Olivier Rousteing designs for Balmain in 2020

Olivier Rousteing designs for Balmain 2020
Olivier Rousteing designs for Balmain 2020



Mirror Mirror on Runway… or what Olivier Rousteing designs for Balmain in 2020. Balmain Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris Fashion Week Ready-to-Wear. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.

Olivier Rousteing, creative director of Balmain, started 2d year of his “understanding” of fashion. It is known fact that he didn’t go to the fashion school, and basically has been chosen to become new creative director for many reasons, including his close connection to Kim Kardashian and her boyfriend Kanye West, but not by his talen and creative skills as a designer.

This question was asked by many media personalities and media, and Olivier Rousteing every time tried to prove or improve his skills. So he choose special way – reproduction, or simply copy. Apparently he spent hours in library with his iPhone, taking photos of old Vogue magazines with forgotten looks of great designers like Thierry Mugler, Karl Lagerfeld or Pierre Cardin.

So his first year in fashion started from season and collection for Spring Summer 2019, which had exact copy some Thierry Mugler looks. And it was well noted by Thierry Mugler himself, media, fashion experts, and also by bloggers.

Thierry Mugler posted on his personal instagram:
Balmain Spring Summer 2019 – Thierry Mugler copy. Screenshots of Thierry Mugler instagram. Thierry Mugler himself well noted and commented on the copies made by Olivier Rousteing of his designs

Screenshots of Thierry Mugler instagram. Thierry Mugler himself well noted and commented on the copies made by Olivier Rousteing of his designs

Probably we all didn’t understand something. That is basically how Olivier Rousteing started his fashion school of design. Next “inspiration” became Karl Lagerfeld. He showed Balmain Cruise 2020 collection in his style with some Mexican touches and rock-n-roll.

Balmain Cruise 2020 Resort collection
Balmain Cruise 2020 Resort collection
CHANEL Fall-Winter 2000-2001 Ready-to-Wear – Karl Lagerfeld
CHANEL Fall-Winter 2000-2001 Ready-to-Wear – Karl Lagerfeld
Chanel Lookbook Spring Summer 2013 – photo Karl Lagerfeld
Chanel Lookbook Spring Summer 2013 – photo Karl Lagerfeld
Balmain Cruise 2020 Resort collection
Balmain Cruise 2020 Resort collection

Next designer Olivier Rousteing studied and tried to reproduce was Pierre Cardin. Spring Summer 2020 Balmain collection was all in Pierre Cardin style, although no tribute or dedication was mentioned to the press or blogger or anywhere visible on the press-release, instead the press-release announced that the presented designs are unique, which never existed before.

It is indeed is a good compilation of Pierre Cardin innovations with its profusion of optical effects and circular motifs. Although no dedication was indicated in press-release of the collection. Instead Olivier Rousteing stated in his interviews that “I call Balmain the guilty pleasure, because it’s not a brand that follows trends. It creates its own codes, and for me, it’s important to remain true to yourself. Sometimes people like it, and sometimes they don’t, but I always say I’d rather be disliked for who I am than liked for who I’m not.”

Apparently copied looks of Thierry Mugler, or redesigned looks of Karl Lagerfeld and Pierre Cardin were also appropriated by the designer with pretension that these codes were also created by him. It is indeed someone likes copies, and someone doesn’t. 

Who Balmain wants to fool? Kim Kardashian, or his new First “Mum”, who recently adopted him?

Balmain Spring Summer 2020 Ready-to-Wear
Balmain Spring Summer 2020 Ready-to-Wear
Pierre Cardin 1969-1975
Pierre Cardin 1969-1975
This Fall-Winter 2020-2021 took a hit on old looks from 1990s of Hermes fashion house. Although as it is 2d year of Olivier Rousteing, so he reconstructed them very well, and with the caution. He also added some Italian touches, changed a little design of the fabrics and added the embroideries. Crafty! With meaning not related to craftsmanship.

The theme of the collection dedicated to astrological signs and horses of course (Hermes was there), and specifically to Scorpion. And it says it all.


Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 Ready-to-Wear. Photos: Daniele Oberrauch / Armando Grillo
Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 Ready-to-Wear. Photos: Daniele Oberrauch / Armando Grillo
Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 Ready-to-Wear. Photos: Daniele Oberrauch / Armando Grillo
Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 Ready-to-Wear. Photos: Daniele Oberrauch / Armando Grillo
Hermes 1990 -Trophées de Venise
Hermes 1990 -Trophées de Venise
Hermes scarf -CHEVAUX DE TRAIT
Hermes scarf -CHEVAUX DE TRAIT
From left to right – Hermes 1990 silk scarf vs Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021
From left to right – Hermes 1990 silk scarf vs Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021
From left to right Hermes 1990 -Grand Manege- design by Henri d’Origny vs Balmain menswear Fall Winter 2020 -2021
From left to right Hermes 1990 -Grand Manege- design by Henri d’Origny vs Balmain menswear Fall Winter 2020 -2021
And last but not least – a leather corset with formed breasts – invention of Jean Paul Gaultier for the Spring Summer 2003 Haute Couture season, and of course reproduced in almost exact way by Olivier Rousteing for Fall-Winter 2020-2021.

Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 vs Jean Paul Gaultier Spring Summer 2003 Haute Couture – leather corset
Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 vs Jean Paul Gaultier Spring Summer 2003 Haute Couture – leather corset
The worst is yet to come…. who’s going to be remastered / reproduced by Olivier Rousteing for next season? Who’d be the next great designer, who’s designs he’ll announce as his own? That is the question!