RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Pret-a-porter Spring Summer 2012 Parisian Fashion Week

FOLLOWING FASHIONISTA AND WHITE FOP

Paris printed Spring Summer 2012 into bold daring colors and blooms. Splendid organic lines, graphic images and bright palettes flourish in silhouettes of new Pret-a-porter collections. Tropical floating faeries of Marcel Marongiu, giant floral prints from Mediterranean of Leonard, rainbows and flower-head birds of Issey Miyake, metallic sparks of Paco Rabanne – wonderful heaven for every woman who finally can wrap herself in all kind of lights and colorful clouds.




on photos from left to right:
Fashion Editor of Moon One TV Franck Clere.
Presentation of Casaire Paciotti in Plaza Anthenee
Two street shoots

New season is the return of femininity: from floral patterns to elegant silhouettes, this season is all about playing up your feminine features. The runways have been littered with flapper-inspired pieces, complete with fringed embellishments and drop waists. Floating silhouettes with floor length skirts, silk taffeta and layers galore marks the return of bright dreams of happiness from over the rainbow. It’s all about rich tribal patterns and ethnic shapes. Texture is always important in tribal. Mixing it up with wood, metallic and feathered items for real depth.


On Photos from left to right:
Fashion Editor of Japanese Vogue magazine Anna Dello Russo
Top Model Anja Rubik

How deep could it be? - wondering Fashionista and without second thought jumping after that White Fop with pocket watch. She still sees him checking every minute before it all starts – the twister of colors and forms. Let's see what would we have here?!
Literally lighting up woman of Paco Rabanne is a product of high-tech luxury, mix of contemporary art and organic forms. Fiber optics light up clothes from the inside, and in shades such as organic teal, antique gold and fiery red, the use of iridescent silks, graphic moire effects, degrade mesh, and numerous special “metallic” fabrics provide lustrous effect for every move. Manish Arora – new designer of house, experimented with futuristic forms not only for collection of Paco Rabanne but for his own. He takes us along an exiting journey of iridescent and florescent infusions, full of breathtaking energies amalgamated with 3-d wire work, embroideries reminiscent of swish feathers, painted in “nude” colors.







Another fascination expedition for Fashionista to the contemporary space where Humpty Dumpty grows to the size of Galaxy – is new collection of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac “Rustica Galactica”. In this temporal space trip the past sophistication turns into future rusticity. Lie Sang Bong created his universe out of Dancheong – the art of decorative colors painted on wooden buildings and artifacts. Neon dresses and masks give a kaleidoscopic display under lightning of peacock's feathers. The organic movement and the feeling of neon color permeated into the clothes. Another designer who created her universe out of Art Deco images, Fatima Lopez presented her space of Egyptian figurines, incongruous mixes of architecture and paradoxical designs.





Life in “Dodo colors” - is a wonderful discovery of new paradise of Yoshiyuki Miyamae. In his first collection for Issey Miyake designer created beautiful world of innocent wonder birds waiting for the comfits, reflecting their desires all around – in colors, fabrics, jumpsuits and dresses billow with movements. Steffie Christianens delicately twisted these colorful birds into magnetic forces of nature and turned them into the flowers. Futuristic images are floating from one collection to another. Unresistant attraction of tropical island is new addiction of Paule Ka designer Serge Cajfinger.





In the world of prodigious blooming flowers Veronique Leroy for Leonard exposed her imagination like never before – pastel hued with dynamic cuts and forms reflect petals, that are about to unfold and reveal their inner beauty. Tropical turquoise and red prints of Emmanuel Ungaro on jersey dresses energize this paradise, symbolize open communication and clarity of thoughts. Clarity of prints in new collection of Marcel Marongiu for Guy Laroche creates an image of unearthly floating being. Precision-tailored leather pieces, including a Tyrolean grey skirts and grey silk dresses, that curling around the waist and running down the legs, are beautiful reminders of Shangri-la's waterfalls.





Andrew Gn advises to his Fashionista to make a jump from magical paradise to simplicity of Queen of Hearts Croquet Garden. Who she's able to meet there? Of course the Royal guards of AF Vandevorst, all plume tight, and pink flamingos of Louis Buchinho. There's also painted pink white roses of Costume National, dancing quadrille creatures of Agnes B, and royal retinue dressed by Alexis Mabille.







But the most exiting part of the adventure when it all tosses and turns into magic extravaganza of Chanel, John Galliano, Hakaan and Elie Saab collections. Elie Saab dipped all his garments into illuminated bold colors: cape-sleeved chiffon dresses, deep purple-blue pantsuits, sensual pleated tops and lace layering skirts. It's all started in white, and then it all happened again in English mustard yellow, graduating to dusky orange, bright green, purple and finally blue.



At Chanel we found ourselves wandering in a bleached white sea bed with giant shells, sea horses and sea weed climbing up towards the huge, glimmering shower curtain. As the twinkling harp music turned to haunting classical music and then Florence Welch took us to the world of delicate sea creatures darting out from the white in cream dresses of sea foam lace, pearlised tweed suits with full skirts and jackets cut shoulder-blade high at the back to show off pearl-studded spines, iridescent sequinned dresses falling to pale green ostrich feather skirts. This magic continued by Karl Lagerfeld in collection of Hogan.





Hakaan gave a polished look of super sleek urban clothes, some of which allowed us to imagine that he would captured Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel mermaids in his own fishing net, so naked were they beneath their mesh tops and sheer body con dresses – even their hair was still wet. When they were covered, it was in clean white tailored blazers or mesh-backed bomber jackets, tunic and tops. Another serene collection, almost as if all the showmanship we associate with Galliano had been stripped down to present the most significant elements of Old England: floral dresses and long coats.





Well our Fashionista is home now – in reals world where the long grass rustled at her feet, where she could hear the rattle of the teacups as the March Hare and his friends shared their never-ending tea-time and never ending happiness, growing day by day in great and beautiful world, unfolding in bright and daring colors.





Eleonora de Gray


Photographers:
Pierre-Yves Le Strat
Simon Ackerman
Christian Tarro Toma

4 October. Fashion shows Leonard and Zucca and presentation of Paule Ka.

This fashion week I'd say is full of surprises. Well, like every fashion week in Paris. 2 big Pavilions were build specially for this season in Pont Alexander III and in Tuileries - Espace Ephémère (Ephemeral Space). I had strong feeling all fashion week that I was watching kind of battle at the same space between greatest of the greatest. So many different colors, lights, music, presentation and meaning of collection which transforms in different images.
It was already 3d show for me at the same Pavilion in Pont Alexander III. After Guy Lariche and Barbara Bui I came to see new collection of Leonard – the most floral and colorful summer collection for the next season.
What colors and flowers we can add to spring and summer? Probably just more flowers and colors. For Veronique Leroy and Daniel Tribouillard collection of new flowers means freedom and lightness. Probably that's why every dress has it's own female name, like Marisa, Manuela, Clara or Merry, like every gorgeous flower. How wonderful to own the dress with it's own name. Name means attention to any tiny detail and tiny line of petal of flower.
This attention comes from the history of Leonard. In 1960, Daniel Tribouillard introduces the first "fully-fashioned", like he called them, pullovers with detailed print designs and employs a unique new printing process which receives an international patent. In 1968, Daniel Tribouillard decides to create for LEONARD his first collection of silk jersey garments. Now Veronique Leroy keeps the same patterns.
New collection is all about flagship silhouettes of loose-fitting casual gowns, with their graceful necklines, are shaped in elegant blue and pink floral or Coptic printed fabrics tinged with a vibrant turquoise. Indian pink, light purple and shiny yellow, softed by deep navy blue, on A-line sleeveless dresses and skirts with small jackets made of light. I'd say this collection made of sun - it's all about colors, ornaments, flowers and retro lines. An absolute must, white is blooming with strength in seaside looks, where overcoats, mini shirts and ponchos come in a cosy terrycloth and a refined cotton waffle.
New collection is shiny day where no rain, no desert – no dusty yellow colors, just sunny day. Silk, leather and suede are sumptuously worked to created stylish patterns adored with embroidered flowers and gilded sequins, freely played with transparence of silk, created new idea of free skying on cloud woman. She's no more then real illusion, THE inspiration, THE Muse.






















From beautiful blooming garden of Leonard I went to the island with waterfalls, birds and forest spirits. What do we feel when we create forest's spirits or spirits what protect animals, insects, fishes, birds? Creativity and freedom - that's probably general inspiration of Akira Onozuka – Japanese fashion designer and founder of Zucca. That time – is dancing tango spirits on the waterfalls like he told me after the show. I asked him: why dancing tango? He said that only tango has such strength in motion for the freedom, which comparable only with strength of nature – waterfalls and wind.
During the conversation I understood that Akira has special relationship of trust to unforeseen moment. All his creations like traditional Japanese Tanka. Short and strong poem where feelings are so pressed and strong that they from matters transforms into physical objects – that is about collections of Akira Onozuka.
His work, known for combining functionality with modern design. Standouts from Akira Onozuka’s delightful ode to the pleat included black sequined sweater dresses over long sheer pleated bases and beige chiffon flapper-style dresses, some layered over shimmering. New collection is no casual elegance – is elegance of night or water. Akira Onozuka is well known for his innovation, utilizing simple casual wear designs, but adding to them a series of edgy additions that have made the brand popular. His most recent collections have ventured into the realm of the modern, flared fashion. New collection is delightful ode to the pleat, hinted subtly at legionnaires and the late couturier's fascination.
And at the end of the show in absolute dark walls of runway turned in waterfalls and dancing tango in the dark silhouettes flew away like birds...
















It brought me back to my lovely weekend. Of course during fashion week you can't spend other time then walking around different exhibitions, like Tranoi or Brits in Paris, different presentations. Almost all boutiques on rue Saint Honore were open, champagne for friends and gusts. Paris generously were welcoming all fashion world.
I was visiting Tranoi and Brits in Paris and I was quiet surprised by creations of young designers, great English potential.
I popped to the presentation of new collection of Paule Ka. Serge Cajfinger founded a fashion boutique in Lille (in the north of France) with his mother and aunt Paule. As an admirer of Jacky Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn or Grace Kelly, Serge Cajfinger is creating a very elegant style for a bubbly woman with allure.
His collections are, above all, timeless. Cajfinger's concept is to take a certain image of Parisian chic and develop it in his clothes. Not only is the label successful internationally, it has also been talked about in France ever since the presidential candidate (Segolène Royal) wore it during her campaign.
Over the seasons, Paule Ka has succeeded thanks to its clean, modern collections. Simplicity, clean cuts -- the clothes are all about elegance. The label's creator, Serge Cajfinger, has just launched a line of bags designed along the same lines.
I noticed that several past collections Serge Cajfinger shakes the history and give us modern style of different epochs. Last collection is all echos of XVIII century. New collection with all it's chic and glamor gave me impression of Rome Empire.
Modern woman by Serge Cajfinger is elegant warrior or senator who like great gladiator's shows.