5 October. Fashion shows Chanel and Marthe+Francois Girbaud.

Spoiled by Chanel and funny streets by Girbaud

Early rainy morning of 5th October – the great morning of fashion week. Karl Lagerfeld shows collection of Chanel in Grand Palais - Grand Canyon of Paris. The whole stage was grand in nature and was shown as a replica of Versailles garden, but made in total black and white color like a landscape. Its graphic scale bore the look of a surrealist fantasy and was inspired by the film “Last Year at Marienbad”, for which Coco Chanel did the costumes. Some called it gala and others called it spectacular, but the event that that was organized at “beau monde” of Paris was a force in itself. It's one of these rare moments where fashion becomes great spectacle like Opera – grandiose and truly touching to tears, with modern classics from Bjork and The Verve's “Bittersweet Symphony”.
The show was huge in nature with close to 90 models participating in it and it was reflection of a monochrome theme that was running deep down in it. Lagerfeld had all the icons - Angela Lindvall, Erin Wasson, Carmen Kass and model of the moment Karlie Kloss all walked the 90-looks collection. But the highlight was undoubtedly Ines de la Fressange, the first model to have ever been exclusively contracted by Chanel, showing in long black gown with her weight in gold chains. Word has it! - Long fashion century of house Chanel.
The beautiful show gave a great emotional charge to more then 2000 people today. Indeed we've been spoiled today by such great treatment. While the original idea was to show the mastery of man over nature, what turned out at the end was the exciting work of Karl and his continuous endeavor to bring about refreshed symbols time and again in Chanel's heritage.
Love at First Sight With Chanel Spring 2011 Collection! It is an uncontested fact that Karl Lagerfeld draws the most glamorous women at Paris Fashion Week. And so it was earlier today that Claudia Schiffer, Vanessa Paradis, Keira Knightley, Lou Doillon, Alexa Chung and Lily Allen all congregated. The morning was truly a Parisian affair with cherished French ingenues Virginie Ledoyen and Clemence Poesy in attendance.
I certainly felt as if I had stepped through a wardrobe and arrived in Wonderland where women are eternally chic and sophisticated, refined in poetry, music and art. An appropriate moodiness opened the show, clothes distressed Chanel-style, which is to say faux-wrecked tweeds with holes impeccably embroidered for longevity and chic. Lagerfeld offered an abundance of news in lineup that more than stood up to the dramatic standing. Although the ideas came too fast and plentiful for full absorption, there were some clear motifs. Hemlines were long and short, and the colors soft and pale: pink, sky blue, peach, gold and silver tones — and heaps of black.
Lagerfeld's favorite jacket is a short tweed with a loose back, with black leather in concert with a vibrant tweed or print a racy alternative, with variations on the tweed suit-namely mini culottes paired with boxy blazers in a cool palette of pastels with a slight dose of sparkle. This was classic Chanel at its best. Leather thigh-highs, rough hemmed jackets and embroidered denim. The clothes were light in both construction and attitude. A pale pink taffeta dresses and jeans were slashed with holes and then embroidered with black beads. Lagerfeld lavished the clothes with feathers, exquisite embroideries and giant floral impressionistic print. The hem was filled in with pink feathers, which made look absolutely fantastic, like exotic bird from some amazing we ever seen, with so inviting voice in my head “Let's fly with me” to the fantasy of Wonderland – where this bird came from. Feather Fair!
The show felt like an amazing parade. At the end of the show all models freezes between ornaments of garden like antic statues for few minuets. And then.... Ines de la Fressange ran to the entrance to meet Karl Lagerfeld – the magician of this show. They walked hand to hand around this garden, and all models followed them. Well, dramatic Parisian Happy End. I love happy endings.

















































Before the Marithé & François Girbaud show even started all audience were prepared to see the show by soundtrack of the street, tuned with some street works and whistling tires, bells of bikes and cheer of teenagers somewhere on background. Indeed for the best – I definitely had to move myself from Wonderland's garden trough the Rabbit's hole to the simple funny street and to feel the joy of youth.
That show was probably the funniest show of the fashion week. The models walked down the runway fired up with energy and jumping, posing in funky stance before photographers. So cheerful indeed to look at models exploring all fun they have, and so unusual for modern podiums, where models represent glamorous ladies with “back” side of glamor – heroin expression. For ones we see smiling happy models waltzing around in ti-shirts and lose jeans, in fact not that elegant but so amazingly comfy. That's why this brand is so popular among youngs because it's always add funky side to the school time and fun to the boring studies.
Finding inspiration in cogwheels, the husband and wife, Marithé and François Girbaud, made the collection with the use of bright yellows, vibrant blues, and strong whites in a mixture of separates and dresses. Collegiate wear was also big on the couple’s designs with preppy styles, including traditional sweaters in bold colors. But such quickly moved into a modern phase in which dark tones of gray, black, and blue became dominant colors of the collection, offering a clean and sleek aesthetic.
Behind these simple scenes: sophisticated manufacturing secrets guarantee freedom for body and soul. Numerous geometric variations favor ruffles, rivets, laces. Tube and stretch lines for pieces that are worn just the way we want. False folds and layers, in reference to pants that cleverly turn into a bag. A garment or accessory? Never as simple as they look, little dresses and skirts, sporty jackets and pants campaign for eternally renewed pleasure-to-wear. A very subjective present reclaims the collective memory from here and there: military references, university spirit, scout emblems, hunting colors, masculine Prince of Wales checks, from historical uniforms to honor badges. New codes of conduct: take all the honors to serve definitely personal codes of casual charisma.
Well, it's not first funny charismatically geometrical collection of Marithé and François Girbaud, so probably that's why it gives inspiration to the teenagers for creativity. Little model Maio after show showed up in little jeans jacket with to sneakers attached to the shoulders. I asked he if this piece is from collection before. Laughing she said “no, I sewed them myself. They are my old sneakers. It's glamorous enough that Marie Antoinette would do it”. Indeed we all remember scene in Marie Antoinette's wardrobe - THE baskets among tiny little slippers.
I actually felt this creative energy – is all around us, like love. “Dinosaur” François Girbaud, like he called himself, it's exactly type of artist exploring his avante-garde ideas in everything what he touches – fashion, art, God knows what's more hidden deep down in universe of Girbaud family. Dinosaur... I perfectly understood what he meant by calling himself like that. He's the creator who keeps many great ideas and transfer them to the children, to make them feel all possibilities for creation. Well, I went out from the show and walked to the next day of Fashion week with that feeling.

4 October. Fashion shows Leonard and Zucca and presentation of Paule Ka.

This fashion week I'd say is full of surprises. Well, like every fashion week in Paris. 2 big Pavilions were build specially for this season in Pont Alexander III and in Tuileries - Espace Ephémère (Ephemeral Space). I had strong feeling all fashion week that I was watching kind of battle at the same space between greatest of the greatest. So many different colors, lights, music, presentation and meaning of collection which transforms in different images.
It was already 3d show for me at the same Pavilion in Pont Alexander III. After Guy Lariche and Barbara Bui I came to see new collection of Leonard – the most floral and colorful summer collection for the next season.
What colors and flowers we can add to spring and summer? Probably just more flowers and colors. For Veronique Leroy and Daniel Tribouillard collection of new flowers means freedom and lightness. Probably that's why every dress has it's own female name, like Marisa, Manuela, Clara or Merry, like every gorgeous flower. How wonderful to own the dress with it's own name. Name means attention to any tiny detail and tiny line of petal of flower.
This attention comes from the history of Leonard. In 1960, Daniel Tribouillard introduces the first "fully-fashioned", like he called them, pullovers with detailed print designs and employs a unique new printing process which receives an international patent. In 1968, Daniel Tribouillard decides to create for LEONARD his first collection of silk jersey garments. Now Veronique Leroy keeps the same patterns.
New collection is all about flagship silhouettes of loose-fitting casual gowns, with their graceful necklines, are shaped in elegant blue and pink floral or Coptic printed fabrics tinged with a vibrant turquoise. Indian pink, light purple and shiny yellow, softed by deep navy blue, on A-line sleeveless dresses and skirts with small jackets made of light. I'd say this collection made of sun - it's all about colors, ornaments, flowers and retro lines. An absolute must, white is blooming with strength in seaside looks, where overcoats, mini shirts and ponchos come in a cosy terrycloth and a refined cotton waffle.
New collection is shiny day where no rain, no desert – no dusty yellow colors, just sunny day. Silk, leather and suede are sumptuously worked to created stylish patterns adored with embroidered flowers and gilded sequins, freely played with transparence of silk, created new idea of free skying on cloud woman. She's no more then real illusion, THE inspiration, THE Muse.






















From beautiful blooming garden of Leonard I went to the island with waterfalls, birds and forest spirits. What do we feel when we create forest's spirits or spirits what protect animals, insects, fishes, birds? Creativity and freedom - that's probably general inspiration of Akira Onozuka – Japanese fashion designer and founder of Zucca. That time – is dancing tango spirits on the waterfalls like he told me after the show. I asked him: why dancing tango? He said that only tango has such strength in motion for the freedom, which comparable only with strength of nature – waterfalls and wind.
During the conversation I understood that Akira has special relationship of trust to unforeseen moment. All his creations like traditional Japanese Tanka. Short and strong poem where feelings are so pressed and strong that they from matters transforms into physical objects – that is about collections of Akira Onozuka.
His work, known for combining functionality with modern design. Standouts from Akira Onozuka’s delightful ode to the pleat included black sequined sweater dresses over long sheer pleated bases and beige chiffon flapper-style dresses, some layered over shimmering. New collection is no casual elegance – is elegance of night or water. Akira Onozuka is well known for his innovation, utilizing simple casual wear designs, but adding to them a series of edgy additions that have made the brand popular. His most recent collections have ventured into the realm of the modern, flared fashion. New collection is delightful ode to the pleat, hinted subtly at legionnaires and the late couturier's fascination.
And at the end of the show in absolute dark walls of runway turned in waterfalls and dancing tango in the dark silhouettes flew away like birds...
















It brought me back to my lovely weekend. Of course during fashion week you can't spend other time then walking around different exhibitions, like Tranoi or Brits in Paris, different presentations. Almost all boutiques on rue Saint Honore were open, champagne for friends and gusts. Paris generously were welcoming all fashion world.
I was visiting Tranoi and Brits in Paris and I was quiet surprised by creations of young designers, great English potential.
I popped to the presentation of new collection of Paule Ka. Serge Cajfinger founded a fashion boutique in Lille (in the north of France) with his mother and aunt Paule. As an admirer of Jacky Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn or Grace Kelly, Serge Cajfinger is creating a very elegant style for a bubbly woman with allure.
His collections are, above all, timeless. Cajfinger's concept is to take a certain image of Parisian chic and develop it in his clothes. Not only is the label successful internationally, it has also been talked about in France ever since the presidential candidate (Segolène Royal) wore it during her campaign.
Over the seasons, Paule Ka has succeeded thanks to its clean, modern collections. Simplicity, clean cuts -- the clothes are all about elegance. The label's creator, Serge Cajfinger, has just launched a line of bags designed along the same lines.
I noticed that several past collections Serge Cajfinger shakes the history and give us modern style of different epochs. Last collection is all echos of XVIII century. New collection with all it's chic and glamor gave me impression of Rome Empire.
Modern woman by Serge Cajfinger is elegant warrior or senator who like great gladiator's shows.