January 26, 2021
Fendi Couture Summer 2021
Fendi Couture Summer 2021. Closed spaces, preserved nature, together with great human knowledge, and the thirsty for knowledge priestesses Demi Moore, Bella Hadid, Kate Moss, Cara Delevingne, Christy Turlington, Naomi Campbell are walking around this marvelous garden / library created by Fendi for this Spring Summer 2021 season. This is the first season for the new designer who came to Fendi fashion House Kim Jones.
Giorgio Armani Privé Couture Summer 2021
Giorgio Armani Privé Couture Summer 2021. The recipe of Haute Couture: unrestrained creativity, the rigour of tradition, the jealously guarded artisanal secrets of the petites mains, a tireless work ethic and a pinch of fairy dust which imbues each look with a magical glow.
Giorgio Armani’s collections tell of his career, his sense of freedom, his independence in the face of current trends. This “Private” collection, which is presented for the first time at Palazzo Orsini – the heart of its Atelier in Milan, witness to the creation and birth of its creations – pays homage to the city of Milan.
January 25, 2021
Valentino Couture Summer 2021
Valentino Couture Summer 2021. Gold, Venetian masks painted gold, bright colors and overwhelming Romanticism of Pierpaolo Piccioli, creative director of House Valentino, is the whole new story of House Valentino for Summer 2021 season. And let us hope that these bright colors will lighten up our hearts with hope and inspire us for greatness.
“When I first started to work on this show, I had clear in mind what I wanted to see. The essence of couture lays on how the couture is done and most of all by who is done. It lays in the ability of seamstress and tailors to manipulate fabrics and threads through a process that transcend the mere execution. We create together and while we do it the creation itself changes whoever is involved in the making. it’s a mutual exchange in which everything is transformed. Now we are here, ready to show the outcome of our journey. What you see here is the result of months, days and hours of the work of the incredibly talented, gifted, human beings that works in the Valentino Atelier. I can’t think of anything better than a princely residence, in our home, Roma, to reveal the real nobility of their job. I am proud of what we did. I am proud of this team and with them by my side, anything is possible. This is now, this is the future, no gender boundaries, no boundaries at all. This is fashion, this is couture.” – creative director of Maison Valentino Pierpaolo Piccioli.
Chanel Couture Summer 2021
Chanel Couture Summer 2021 “Flowers and LESS KITSCH”. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.
It is indeed a shiny summer, in the paradise. Simple looks, peasant silhouettes, flowers… and like CEO of Chanel Bruno Pavlovsky recently put it in his interview to Belgian Newspaper “Le Soir” – “less kitsch”, compare with the time when Karl Lagerfeld designed Chanel: “The truth is that Virgine Viard has discreetly but effectively refined and restructured the Chanel wardrobe: there is less emphasis and eccentric accessories, less kitsch, for more luxurious, universal and timeless pieces, which will cross the seasons… Every day, Virginie’s talent surprises me a little more, she has such an understanding of what Chanel represents. But she also has, in my opinion, a very correct idea of the new image she wants to give to our customers; and which is singularly in tune with our times.”
That says it all. New images of Chanel, simple, affordable, which proposes massive public sales… and flowers… lots and lots of flowers of course. From rich Haute Couture to very casual Ready-to-Wear and more…
Schiaparelli Couture Spring Summer 2021
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2021. The beginning of 2021 became a real creative explosion for French fashion house Schiaparelli and its creative director Texan Daniel Roseberry. “Creativier and Creativier!” said Daniel Rosberry like a magic spell, and he got himself for Christmas a Kim Kardashian to dress like a superwoman or Christmas tree, whichever comes first. Kim got her the six pack bodice, in molded leather rubbed to be Jaguar green, and the skirt in absinthe silk velvet.
Then another very successful moment and actually very important moment in American history for all United States was the dress Lady Gaga wore for the Inauguration of Joe Biden January 20th 2021. Lady Gaga sang National anthem in absolutely spectacular dress created for this occasion by Daniel Roseberry.
And last but not least Daniel Roseberry decided to do the photoshoot of his new Spring Summer 2021 Haute Couture Collection himself. Designer and photographer?.. Who was the last one we knew and who’s place was dark and empty for some time?… Daniel photographed himself spectacular surrealistic pieces the way he saw them. Absolute success!
January 24, 2021
Christian Dior Couture Summer 2021
Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring Summer 2021. Monsieur Dior was famously superstitious and, in a perpetuation of House history, this Haute Couture Spring Summer 2021 collection is a story of premonitions, tarot and all mysteries of the world. Maria Grazia Chiuri after many experiments in peasant looks and “Bobo simplified extravaganza” decided to give the wheel of the haute Couture collection to the designers of the Dior House. And this is collection is absolutely fabulous unity of the classic silhouette of Dior House and savoir-faire.
Tarot cards are among the keys to accessing the magical realm, to explore the unknown while fearlessly looking deep inside oneself. In uncertain times marked by a palpable desire to reconnect with the world’s soul, through the spring-summer 2021 haute couture collection, the mysterious and pluralistic beauty of the tarot in a series of dresses featuring virtuoso constructions; manifest proof that couture remains the ultimate territory of experimentation and possibility.
A series of extraordinary evening gowns features abstract constructions, some with veritable bas-relief openwork bodices punctuated with illustrations by Pietro Ruffo. In this spirit, the roman artist created a singular deck of cards in which characters disclose the graphic energy of the symbols. Dior gray appears in tweed, cashmere and organza on shirts, skirts, pants and capes. Meanwhile, the bar jacket is revisited in black velvet, its curves reinterpreted to express a new attitude.
Decorated by the illuminator Bonifacio Bembo for the Duke of Milan in the 15th century, this tarot deck illustrates the marvelous tale of this collection. Splendid cards embellished in gold, enamel, and vegetal and geometric interlacing have a solemn and enigmatic presence, revealing an inner journey, like an adventure of self-discovery. A voyage to the heart of a castle populated by characters embodying the major arcana who question and disorient, inviting the viewer to look at the world from a new perspective. In the director’s interpretation, this quest surpasses gender boundaries, presenting a synthesis of masculine and feminine in a new heraldic mythology evoking the enchanted worlds Matteo Garrone loves.
A clairvoyant asks to draw a card in a deck designed as a catalogue of possibilities, a cryptic dictionary of the world. The high priestess, the empress, justice, and the fool are notably sublimated through excellence of savoir-faire celebrating the art of weaving: lace is inlaid with hand-painted embellishments, golden velvet is enlivened with the signs of the zodiac and precious jacquards are sprinkled with stars, while a cape in multicolored feathers showcases 3d volumes in this story, the insider always needs the feminine complement and vice versa, because only such a fusion makes it possible to approach a formative path leading to self-awareness. As Italo Calvino points out in the castle of crossed destinies: “the world has to be read upside-down”.
October 7, 2020
Best of Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2021
Best of Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2021 season. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.
Paris was competing with New York and Milan about how to organize in the best way fashion week, make it safe and secure for the designers, all participants and the people who’ll be able to attend. Fashion Federation in New York decided to go mostly for digital presentation, only few very private shows were organized by the designers at their own homes.
Milan obviously won this “safety” competition. The masks, social distancing (2m between the seats), negative tests for all participants and the gusts at the entrance – perfect organization. Fashion Federation in Paris (Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode) organized the fashion week…. well, how it’s been always organized in Paris. Federation announced that 1000 people are perfectly allowed to be present at the show, even French government forbid all public gatherings for more than 12 people. No one really cared about social distancing, and of course there were no negative tests demands. Although not too many designers organized the real shows, many decided “go safety”, “go digital”, and do the online presentations.
Christian Dior, Balmain and Chanel and couple of emerging designers organized “real” shows, plus of course fashion salons. Salons were empty, no one visited them, as public already long time ago lost interest to emerging brands repeating, recopying and reproducing each other, and now professionals, experts, media and buyers are no longer interested in overprized badly made clothes.
The result of these efforts are… zero, not a big fat one, invisible one. The scheduled online presentations didn’t draw much attention either. Brands, who are so eager to buy fake followers on instagram and other social media networks, didn’t get closer to reality, not much viewers were noted on the instagram or youtube. Perhaps it is a time to face it – only very small community, 200-300 people are really interested to watch, and only 5% of them are actually have desire to buy.
See Best of the Spring Summer 2021 looks HERE
Christian Dior opened the fashion week, and showed Italian looks, looks repeated Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino designs, spiced up by peasant tasteless looks, during the modern, very contemporary choral, which no one was able to handle for more than 2 mon, plus pseudo-artistic approach.
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| Christian Dior Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE |
Olivier Rousteing for Balmain Spring Summer 2021 season decided to battle his habit to copy and presented something which no one expected – a collection “dig, dig, dig, dig, dig, dig, dig”. Heigh-Ho, he actually found the way, for ones, this ones, to use traditional Balmain logo on the garments and bags, and presented the looks he actually created himself, and the Pinocchio looks he actually loves: oversized long jackets and shorts panties.
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| Balmain Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE |
The hit of this season was Spring Summer 2021 collection presented by Rick Owens from Milan. He organized the show in Milan, to be safe, knowing that Paris is not ready and not willing or capable to compel to health issues, and projected it to Paris digitally. Can you imagine Rick Owens pink? No, you can’t. But here it is – pink, fresh and beautiful, full of hope and actually elegance. In all ways it feels like the heart of Rick Owens during these dark times filled up with the hope.
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| Rick Owens Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE |
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Spring Summer 2021 created an ode to Vivienne Westwood, romantic and profound ” from Chinese Tanka to English fog”. Beautiful, very profound digital presentation gave this fascination to this collection maybe because of this beautiful ode to the queen Vivienne, the lady of his heart. And of course “without further ado”, discussions, conferences and investment, Vivienne Westwood Spring Summer 2021 collection presented another sustainability creative project. N.B Fabrics: Recycled, Eco, Bio, Organic, FSC Certified.
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| Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE |
Chanel wanted to present “Hollywood” collection for this Spring Summer 2021 season. The look apparently reserved for the stars, who’ll wear them for the next Award ceremony. Everything was designed to support this “cinematic” view: huge letters ‘CHANEL” in the manner of famous “Hollywood” letters in California, colorful simple pants and jackets, ti-shirts with letter “5” in the form of the street tags, colorful shirts with photos of neon lights. Chanel Spring-Summer 2021 Ready-to-Wear collection imagined by Virginie Viard, inspired by the House’s privileged relationship with actresses, both on and off-screen.
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| Chanel Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE |
Nicolas Ghesquiere for Louis Vuitton for Spring Summer 2021 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week season actually presented a concept. The fashion show took place in renewed and opened La Samaritaine. Movie “Wings of Desire” of Wim Wenders, and repeated image of Bruno Ganz, an Angel staying on the roof of high building in Berlin right after the Second Word War, is a leitmotiv of Louise Vuitton Spring Summer 2021 collection by Nicolas Ghesquiere.
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| Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2021 – Bruno Ganz Wings of Desire by RUNWAY MAGAZINE |
Maison Margiela Spring Summer 2021 “Still With A Loving Kiss”. John Galliano presented a movie at Paris Fashion week. Artistic dancing, backstage artisanal work and interview – all of these mix-match laid down as a sustainability concept of Maison Margiela. John Galliano told about his passion to discover old pieces on flee-markets all over the world, replicate them, re-create them, so the garments could have a new life and live again. He proposed new recycling project of the House.
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| Maison Margiela Spring Summer 2021 – John Galliano by RUNWAY MAGAZINE |
And basically there’s nothing more to say about Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2021 season. No more creative concepts noted, and to speak about massive fiasco has no longer any interest.
October 5, 2020
Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2021
Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2021 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week. The fashion show took place in renewed and opened La Samaritaine, renewed and turned by Bernard Arnault, CEO of LVMH (Louis Vuitton group) in luxury hotel.
Movie “Wings of Desire” of Wim Wenders, and repeated image of Bruno Ganz, an Angel staying on the roof of high building in Berlin right after the Second Word War, is a leitmotiv of Louise Vuitton Spring Summer 2021 collection by Nicolas Ghesquiere.
Is that a message that the old world is destroyed, but there’s always a hope? The original name of the movie “The Heaven over Berlin”, the movie about hope and love, the story of Angels. The collection is inspired by modern generation of artistic Berlin.
If you look at the collection closely you will see several themes:
- the theme of Berlin’s wall – the contemporary art and graffiti,
- the theme of the Angel – black coats and lose jackets,
- the theme of the sky and clouds – grey and silver combinezons with clouds on them,
- and the theme of the prisoner’s uniform of death camps – ti-shirts and pants with stripes.
Designer Nicolas Ghesquiere took these themes with the HOPE. This is the story in the “Wings of Desire” or “Heaven over Berlin” and the theme of the collection. That is probably why on some ti-shirts we can see one word “VOTE” (fist look), so the darkest human history won’t repeat itself.
See ALL LOOKS HERE
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| Wings of Desire by Wim Wenders – Bruno Ganz |
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| Wings of Desire by Wim Wenders – Bruno Ganz |
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| Wings of Desire by Wim Wenders – Bruno Ganz |
Chanel Spring Summer 2021
Chanel Spring Summer 2021 Paris Fashion Week. Hollywoo….
Press-release:
For the press kit of the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2021 Ready-to-Wear collection imagined by Virginie Viard, the Dutch photographers Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin have shot a series of photographs and videos, inspired by the House’s privileged relationship with actresses, both on and off-screen.
In three different decors, the models Rianne Van Rompaey, Mica Argañaraz and Louise de Chevigny play four recurring cinematic situations. On the telephone, gazing out of the window, sitting on a bed, and walking through the heart of Paris, they embody the natural elegance and the photogenicity of the silhouettes imagined by the Artistic Director.
“Playing on the idea of repetition, the women all enact the same gestures,” confide Inez & Vinoodh. “They are each clearly in their own world but together represent what we feel is Chanel’s way of fitting into the lives of every woman with a cool and easy allure.”
The CHANEL Spring-Summer 2021 Ready-to-Wear collection will be shown on Tuesday October 6th 2020 at 10.30am (Paris time) at the Grand Palais in Paris. The show will also be streamed live on chanel.com and across CHANEL’s social media.
See ALL LOOKS HERE
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| Chanel Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE |
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| Chanel Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE |
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| Chanel Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE |
October 3, 2020
Kenzo Takada – fashion icon died 4 October 2020
Kenzo Takada – fashion icon died 4 October 2020. With his use of colors and lights, he forever changed Parisian couture. It is sad to know that this great designer became another victim of Covid-19.
Many people in Paris today expressed their sadness. Kenzo Takada was born in Japan, he came to Paris in January 1965. And he indeed became a national treasure.
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| Kenzo Takada support to RUNWAY MAGAZINE |
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| Mat Maitland creative commercial project for Kenzo – 2013 Resort collection |
He was suppose to attend the evening 23 September 2020, the premiere of the film “House of Cardin”, but at that time he was already weakened by coronavirus. Full of life, full of flowers Kenzo Takada was spirited away in the land of beauty and art.
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| PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 28: Kenzo Takada celebrates his 80th Birthday at Pavillon Ledoyen on February 28, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Rindoff Petroff/Castel/Getty Images) |
Many people in Paris today expressed their sadness. Kenzo Takada was born in Japan, he came to Paris in January 1965. And he indeed became a national treasure.
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| Kenzo Takada and Eleonora de Gray – Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE |
I’ve meet him in 2010 during his art exposition in Pierre Cardin gallery. And since then I always felt his support and participation in many fashion and art project we organized. And I’m forever thankful for that.
Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE
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