RUNWAY MAGAZINE ®

January 24, 2022

Schiaparelli Couture Spring Summer 2022

Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 – PornHub Follies or “Schiap show”. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.

This Haute Couture fashion week started with great sadness – Thierry Mugler left us. The King is dead…. And… Haute Couture fashion week started with Schiaparelli by Texan Daniel Roseberry.

PornHub Follies for Kanye West

Daniel Roseberry’s collection merged the showmanship of the PornHub Follies with the drama of sci-fi…. and looks so well chosen and reinvented from Pierre Cardin and Thierry Mugler, with slight difference that these looks meant for Kanye West.

Old Parisian Haute Couture House Schiaparelli opened its doors and made garments to present to former rapper and PurnHub Producer Kanye West, assumingly that these pieces will soon be used in his production. Daniel Roseberry, drugging behind name of Else Schiaparelli (or Schiapareli with one “l”), already last season proposed his garments to strippers, drag queens for their shows (and not the most elegant ones).

Apparently Daniel Roseberry likes when they say “Ouch”… Although he didn’t introduced “Haute Couture” surreal sex-toys like another Parisian brand (“On Aura Tout Vu”, translated as “We’ve seen it all”) did this season. Schiaparelli is a Haute Couture House with the identity linked to surrealism. So sex-toys should be surreal (tip). Sex-toys were not introduced just yet. We’ll have to wait for the next season.

Kanye West in black pantyhose and Julia Fox at Schiaparelli Spring Summer 2022

This season Daniel Roseberry got more than excited as known and renown PornHub Awards Creative director and PornHub Producer, former rapper Kanye West came to his show accompanied by “new flame”, new muse Julia Fox, known for her leading roles in erotic dramas and series, was testament to the brand’s heat.

Kanye West appeared at the Schiaparelli show during Paris Fashion Week with black pantyhose over head, like bank robbers from the 1980s. Kanye West got used to pantyhose, as he wore this “headwear” for different events like football games or glamorous evenings, according to the comments made by Snoop Dogg and Kevin Hart at the New Year show, which made millions of Americans laugh.

Daniel Roseberry, as a “visionary” marketer, probably already know that pantyhose videos are skyrocketing on PurnHub. So with Kanye West is a win-win situation.

Talking about Kanye West in black pantyhose. There’s probably another explanation to this. He’s probably still desperately tries to match his ex-wife. Kim Kardashian appeared in black outfit made for her by Demna Gvasalia, creative director of Balenciaga, for Met Gala 2021. There were no erotic meaning, but Kanye West took it in whole new level, so as Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli.

Schiaparelli Spring Summer 2022 Couture or “Schiap show“

Maybe for the public Schiaparelli show looked like “Haute Couture returns”… but from expert point of view – not so much. Let’s look closely. The gilding on the accessories is not gilding – it’s just a golden paint, no volume, looks “reinvented” or reproduced. Daniel Roseberry in his notes about the show, proudly published on the Schiaparelli web-site, said that the looks he didn’t even draw anything. Of course he didn’t have to – everything was already drawn by Jean Paul Gaultier, Thierry Mugler and Pierre Cardin. He just needed to look at the sketches and make some changes, add accessories, and Bum!.. 3-dimensional!

Suzy Menkes, known independent fashion expert, called it “Schiap show”. And it sounds like “Cheap”. Cheap show, yes indeed.

Suzy Menkes about Schiaparelli Couture Spring Summer 2022 show

Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

In pompous notes to the show Daniel Roseberry wrote: “What felt exciting was something more restrained. Suddenly colour seemed wrong to me. So did volume. All of the tricks that couture designers – including me! – used to communicate – grandeur and craftsmanship – felt hollow.”

Indeed this collection felt hollow, empty. After 2 years thinking about surreal, plunging into the archives of Elsa Schiaparelli, Daniel Roseberry came out only with nothing, so he came to “check” what’s good around.

Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Daniel Roseberry and Cone-bra of Jean Paul Gaultier

I already expressed my opinion about iconic cone-bra or bullet-bra created by Jean Paul Gaultier for Madonna in 1990s. And it is not clear why Daniel Roseberry reinventing and appropriating this creation. Read more about it in the review about Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Jean Paul Gaultier for Madonna 1990s - iconic cone-bra or bullet-bra

Jean Paul Gaultier for Madonna 1990 vs Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli RTW Spring Summer 2022

JP Gaultier for Stephanie Faracy – Hocus Pocus 1993 vs Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli HC Spring Summer 2022

I’m not convinced as I see echoes of Thierry Mugler and Pierre Cardin in this collection. And from the looks of it the volume is not profound – these are just scene costumes, and they can’t represent Parisian elegance. And they probably shouldn’t as they designed not just for Las Vegas but for Kanye West new production.

Pierre Cardin echoes in Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli HC Spring Summer 2022

Here are some other looks.

So this is all about this collection – fake and flat for PornoHub.

Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

See all looks Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022

Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

See all looks Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022

November 13, 2021

2021 CFDA Fashion Awards ceremony – Celebrating Counterfeit

2021 CFDA Fashion Awards ceremony – Celebrating Counterfeit. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.

Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of lifetime achievement CFDA Award 2021

Emily Blunt, Chairman of the CFDA Tom Ford, Dame Anna Wintour, Designer Demna Gvasalia of Balenciaga, Kering - CFDA Award 2021

CFDA Fashion Awards 2021 ceremony took place at the Pool + The Grill within the Seagram Building on Park Avenue. The fabulous evening was hosted by actress Emily Blunt.

Celebration of counterfeit and illegal goods designer Dapper Dan with the Geoffrey Beene lifetime achievement award

This year CFDA honored counterfeit goods designer Dapper Dan with the Geoffrey Beene lifetime achievement award, making him the first designer without a fashion show, and the first designer who produced counterfeit goods, chased by FBI, to ever win the honor.

Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of lifetime achievement CFDA Award 2021

Dapper Dan was tearing when he received the award this Wednesday November 10. He proudly told the story how he printed on fabrics in his atelier the logos of Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Fendi, how he picked the designs from sportswear companies, or Christian Dior Haute Couture designs for the famous jacket he made with Louis Vuitton printed logos to Olympic Runner Diane Lynn Dixon, or how he mixed Gucci and Louis Vuitton logos on the bomber jackets. Dapper Dan proudly told the story about how he “created” jackets, even total looks for drug-lords, rap or hip-hop singers.

Dapper Dan also told the story about how fashion brands filed massive lawsuit against him, he was chased by FBI, and finally they were able to close his atelier in Harlem, and strip him from all money he earned by production of illegal goods. Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Dior, and specifically Fendi put the end to this illegal production.

Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of lifetime achievement CFDA Award 2021

Olympic Runner Diane Dixon - Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of CFDA Award 2021

Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of lifetime achievement CFDA Award 2021

In 2017 CEO of Kering Luxury Group Francois-Henri Pinault and CEO of Gucci Marco Bizzarri decided to invest several million dollars, and and relaunched Dapper Dan as a by-appointment studio for custom pieces. Dapper Dan himself was even starring in Gucci’s new men’s-tailoring ad campaign.

In another words CEO of Kering Luxury Group Francois-Henri Pinault released “Counterfeit Bacteria” on the world and started “Counterfeit Pandemic“, which spreads today as rapidly as coronavirus. Here and there I see “designers”, who present even in department stores their counterfeit production, some sort of hybrids.

I’m asking myself a question – is that some strange way of Kering to “outsmart” LVMH? Gucci belongs to the Group Kering, Luxury goods company. Louis Vuitton belongs to LVMH – another Luxury goods company. And back in the 90s Dapper Dan used mostly Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Fendi logos, mixing and matching them up. It is known that Kering and LVMH for more than 50 years had a war for territory in the luxury market. So when in 2017 Gucci invested to re-opened an atelier in Harlem for Dapper Dan, invested to clean up his reputation, paid media (and specifically to one), made him sponsor of New York Fashion Week, there is a reason for that. Tailoring method, or as Dapper Dan calls it “designs”, which were used with Louis Vuitton logos today remade with the logos of Gucci. Is it another way, quiet pervert I might add, to take territory from LVMH? The perversity of it all, mind games if you like, would be this investment in Dapper Dan of François-Henri Pinault, CEO of Kering, with desire to “outsmart” Bernard Arnault, CEO of LVMH, and take the “territory” which is definitely outside of law, in the dark side, belonged to LVMH in the past. Although this mind game of Francois-Henri Pinault has a very dark outcome. He didn’t think about circumstances, how it’ll affect sociality, and what destructive results it could bring worldwide just 3 years after. Bringing Dapper Dan to the light side, paying the media to clean up his reputation, naming him “true genius”, made him sponsor of New York Fashion week, give him lifetime achievement award by CFDA in 2021 opened up a path to legitimize all illegal producers, counterfeit designers. And started “Counterfeit Pandemic”.

In 2018 Vogue became promotion outlet for Dapper Dan, in 2019 Vogue invited as a guest of honor Dapper Dan to The Met Gala, invited stars to visit his atelier in Harlem. And in 2021 Pepsi who wanted to become a sponsor of New York Fashion Week Dapper Dan was imposed, so he can also be announced as a sponsor of New York Fashion Week. And the last – CFDA honored Dapper Dan with lifetime achievement award in 2021.

Chairman of CFDA Tom Ford celebrates Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dapper Dan CFDA Award 2021

Gucci CEO Marco Bizzarri, A$AP Ferg, Susan Chokachi celebrate CFDA Award 2021 of Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan

The shadowy business of counterfeits has taken over the globe to become a $1.2 trillion industry. Despite extensive and expensive efforts by brands, by law enforcement, efforts of the Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (“OECD”) and the European Union Intellectual Property Office (“EUIPO”), this shadowy business became the center of the attention during this New York Fashion Week, and the most known designer / tailor of counterfeit illegal goods Dapper Dan was honored by lifetime achievement award for his counterfeit illegal goods production in 90s from its organizer CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America).

“We’re also incredibly pleased to see several talented names among the nominees for the first time. American fashion is experiencing a renewed energy, and the designers play a significant role in the future trajectory of our industry,” – said CFDA CEO Steven Kolb.

In parenthesis. Michael Kors at the beginning of 2021 proposed concept FENDACE, a collaboration between Fendi and Versace. Let’s say it is a very creative way against counterfeit pandemic. Fendi was the one who insisted in 1990s to put the end to counterfeit illegal activities of Dapper Dan, close his atelier, and strip him of all earnings.

Michael Kors didn’t approve the nomination of a counterfeit goods tailor Dapper Dan with lifetime achievement award, his sponsorship of New York Fashion Week. He predicted the “Counterfeit Pandemic” and decided to confront it in the most creative way – with the concept. Capri Holdings Limited, a multinational fashion holding company, founded and owned by American designer Michael Kors, since 2018 owns Versace – the most popular luxury brand, and the one being the most exposed to counterfeit.

Michael Kors proposed a concept to Donatella Versace and Fendi to create a mix-match collection and united their logos and styles. If public want to see Versace and Fendi logos in one luxury item, so let’s create it for them in one outfit and by these brands. This absolutely brilliant concept had a huge success during Milan Fashion Week this September. The collection Versace and Fendi got a name FENDACE. Donatella Versace leaded this project. Michael Kors even flew to Milan for the show.

Fendi Versace collaboration - Fendace - by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Back to Celebration of counterfeit and illegal goods designer Dapper Dan with the Geoffrey Beene lifetime achievement award….

“This is an important moment in American fashion. There is much excitement about the return of New York City and New York Fashion Week as well as the top caliber of diverse talent making their mark on the city and the global fashion landscape. The CFDA Fashion Awards are our biggest fundraiser of the year, and we are looking forward to our industry coming together, in person again, to celebrate the very best of American creativity,” – said CFDA CEO Steven Kolb.

Nominations for each award category were submitted by the CFDA Fashion Awards Guild, comprised of members of the CFDA, and Vogue magazine.

Winners of CFDA Fashion Awards 2021

Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of lifetime achievement CFDA Award 2021

American Womenswear Designer of the Year Christopher John Rogers – CFDA Award 2021

Drew Barrymore and Christian Siriano at CFDA Award 2021

Emerging Designer Of The Year Edvin Thompson Of Theophilio – CFDA Award 2021

Founders Award of the Year Aurora James and Dame Anna Wintour – CFDA Award 2021

Inaugural Face of the Year Award Anya Taylor-Joy presented by Cara Delevingne – CFDA Award 2021

International Women’s Designer of the Year Demna Gvasalia of Balenciaga, Kering Group – CFDA Award 2021

The Board of Directors Tribute honoree Yeohlee Teng, presented by Michael Kors – CFDA Award 2021

Zendaya, 2021 CFDA Fashion Icon, Iman and stylist Law Roach at CFDA Award 2021

August 29, 2021

Dolce Gabbana Alta Moda Venice 2021

Dolce Gabbana Alta Moda Venice 2021 “La Serenissima”. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.

Piazzetta San Marco is the place where visitors to the city were once invited to admire the magnificence of “La Serenissima” and is, accordingly, one of the most celebrated and well-known treasures of Venice.

Special guests like Saweetie, Bebe Rexha, Jennifer Lopez, Sean Combs, Doja Cat, Kris Jenner, Kourtney Kardashian, Ciara, Monica Bellucci, Christian Bale, Dame Helen Mirren, Kitty Spencer, and super-rich clients watched the Alta Moda show today at St Mark’s Square, blocked by Venice for this special occasion.

Many stars and rich clients were invited to see and dine during these 3 nights of Alta Moda, Alta Gioielleria and Alta Sartoria, organized in Venezia by Dolce Gabbana. Apart from Jennifer Lopez with Price Tag, Sharon Stone’s campaign shooting with pigeons intervention, thunderstorms and huge hails, rainbows, there’s also something to talk about.

Jennifer Hudson performed Nessun Dorma at the climax of the Dolce Gabbana Alta Moda show in Venice 2021. The show started with the performance of the actors dressed in Commedia Dell’arte characters. It is a theater, performance, so loved by the designers.

Venice represents the perfect harmony of opposites that attract: it is romantic and sensual, melancholic and joyful, rational and visionary, luminous and nocturnal, sacred and profane, dark and golden. And this is the feeling of the Alta Moda 2021 collection.

“Returning to Venice always fills us with unique emotions, which we hold dear in our hearts.

Like a breath held too long that you have to let go, Venice is our dream,” – said Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana.

Venice is a shrine to romanticism, a palace of refinement and a sanctuary of extraordinary beauty.

Inspired by Venetian art, culture and splendour, Alta Moda Collection pays homage to the history of Venice and its illustrious artists. Although Dolce Gabbana didn’t honor these artisans, so none of them were announced or praised for fabulous designs and art works presented at Alta Moda and Alta Sartoria.

The collection of 120 pieces was a reproduction of Commedia Dell’arte characters, kaleidoscopic patterns of Murano glass, or the serpentine patterns on the floor of St Mark’s, imaginative cloaks of Casanova, knotted rope as Doge’s dress. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana decided to use colorful wigs for the models to attract young generation to the collection, and some “population” of Los Angeles.

This fabulous show was a triumph of richness of Italian craftsmanship, unfortunately not one atelier who created these magnificent embroideries was mentioned, and provided richest clients of the Dolce Gabbana with a site-specific and unique souvenir…. Unique… might be a little overreach, as many pieces of this Alta Moda collection “traveled” from past years, some dresses “were nothing new”, some pieces somehow became an echo of Valentino Couture Fall Winter 2021-2022 designed by Pierpaolo Piccioli, and some like short velvet dresses were nothing to do here.

Alta Sartoria is the 3d event during this special weekend in Venice. Alta Sartoria – Haute Couture for men. Fabulous artistic work of Venetian artisans is the most spectacular part of the show. Although Dolce Gabbana didn’t honor these artisans, so none of them were announced or praised for fabulous designs and art works presented this weekend.

“Only in Venice!” Probably Zeus or one of the antient gods got jealous ones again about fabulous golden embroideries and riches and expressed his unspeakable wrath to the humans… But the show and rage of ancient gods were so mythological, and so real that the show indeed came like one of the Prometheus stories.

PS. And there’s always a right place to add special review related to the quality and service provided by Dolce Gabbana to the admirers of the brand, who might have a desire to become an owner of one of the pieces of this brand, and still don’t belong to the super-rich crowd invited tonight for Alta Moda 2021 show in Venice.